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Kojic Acid Soaps and Creams for Skin Brightening

Kojic Acid Soap brand Koji San.
Kojie San Skin Brightening Soap: The Original Kojic Acid Soap.

Overview

Kojic Acid Serum
Kojic acid serum for dark spot treatment.

Kojic acid (KA) is a naturally-derived ingredient that has become very popular with dermatologists for skin brightening applications. Kojic acid is made by several different types of fungi, with the most well known one being Aspergillus oryzae. (called koji in Japanese). It is also a byproduct of fermentation of foods such as Japanese sake, soy sauce and rice wine. Ironically, KA also has antifungal properties.

Kojic acid blocks UV-activation of tyrosinase, which in turn limits the production of melanin. Kojic acid can lighten existing age spots, sunspots and photodamage; fade dark marks from acne scarring and pimples; and even slightly improve melasma.

Cosmetic Versions

Kojic acid has been approved for use in cosmetic products in concentrations of 2 percent or lower. Nowadays, you can buy many over-the-counter skincare products that contain kojic acid. This includes skin lightening creams, lotions, soaps, serums, cleansers and powders. Many pharmaceutical and cosmetic products contain kojic acid due to its improvement of skin color disorders. Cerams, lotion and serums containing KA are meant to be applied to the skin and left on to get absorbed. In contrast, soaps and cleansers containing KA are meant to be applied and washed off rapidly.

According to Dr. Sheila Nazarian, kojic acid works well with and enhances the effects of glycolic acid and hydroquinone. However, do note that the last mentioned ingredient is not always safe in people with darker skin and needs to be used under supervision.

Side Effects and Concentration Levels

According to a 2010 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, Kojic acid is safe to use as long as it is at a concentration level of 2% or lower in leave-on cosmetics. Of course you still need to take the usual precautions of not ingesting it or getting it into your eyes by mistake. If you leave any kojic acid product on your skin for too long, it can result in contact dermatisis, skin redness, irritation, itchiness and inflammation. Do not use it on broken or wounded skin.

While raw kojic acid is available, cosmetic products always contain a highly diluted level of the ingredient. A concentration level of 1 to 2 percent is recommended in order to reduce the chances of skin outbreaks and irritation. Do not ever try to apply raw kojic acid to your skin as it can be very dangerous.

Kojic Acid Soap Results

The below is a great video testimonial from a patient who used Kojic acid soap for a week on her face on one of her hands. The before and after results were good considering the short time frame of the experiment. Her facial skin looked brighter and more glowing after a week, with slight improvement in the uneven skin tone. Her knuckles on the hand on which she used the Kojic acid soap became lighter.

Some of the comments recommend being gentle while lathering the soap and keeping it in contact with the facial skin for a reasonable time period. Too short and the effectiveness will be limited since kojic acid can take a while to penetrate the skin. Too long and there could be side effects such as excessive skin dryness that would then require moisturizers.

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Categorized as Kojic Acid

Treating Hyperpigmentation on Indian Skin

Indian skin is particularly susceptible to hyperpigmentation. Most people in India have a skin tone ranging from Type III to Type VI on the Fitzpatrick scale, although Type II is also seen in the northernmost regions of the country. The general recommendations on reducing hyperpigmentation in people with darker skin are not alway set in stone when it comes to South Asian skin.

Something that will work in African American skin might not work as well in Indian skin. On a side note, South Asians tend to have substantially more body hair than other ethnicities, so laser hair removal is extremely popular in the subcontinent. Lasers that work well on the fairer skinned Indians (skin Type III or even lighter).

Treating Hyperpigmentation in Indian Skin

If you have Indian skin, you must check out the clinics and doctors that are listed in the India country section in my page on top clinics for dark skin laser treatments. Not only are these clinics experienced at treating darker skin, they almost entirely specialize in treating Indian patients.

Most of them have years of experience in using lasers to treat Indian skin. Whether for hair removal, hyperpigmentation treatment, acne scar revision, moles and skin tag removal and much more. And they all use the latest available technologies that work on South Asian dusky skin tones.

The depth of hyperpigmentation is also an important factor when it comes to treatment strategy. Epidermal hyperpigmentation is on the upper layers of the skin and hence easier to treat. In contrast, dermal pigmentation runs much deeper and requires more intensive treatments.

Vogue India has a good summary of recommendations in treating dark spots in Indian skin. According to Dr. Lara Devgan, if done too agressively, lasers, chemical peels, and microinfusion microneedling for fading darkness can make dark spots worse in peple with olive and darker skin tones.

The Ageless Clinic in India in Mumbai has a useful page that discusses pigmentation issues in Indian skin. Below is an image from the clinic’s instagram that shows a before and after result in removing hyperpigmentation from an Indian person.

Hyperpigmentation Indian Skin
Before and after hyperpigmentation in Indian skin. Treatment from Ageless Clinic.

The clinic’s owner is Dr. Harsha Bijlani. According to her, once the issue causing your pigmentation is under control (whether hormonal, due to injury or excessive sun exposure), peels and lasers are the most common ways to prevent and fight pigmentation. Inititial treatment will usually consist of skin lightening creams that are more suitable for darker skin.

At the Ageless Clinic, hyperpigmentation treatment consists of the following options:

  • PicoSure®.
  • Clear Skin Laser™.
  • Cosmelan™.
  • AgeLess Diamond Skin Resurfacing™.
  • Dermaroller with Lightening Agents.
  • Mesotherpy with Lightening Agents.
  • Skin-brightening Super-Medi Facials.
  • AgeLess Stem Cell Face Treatment™.
  • Chemical Peels.

A Common Skin Concern

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin concern for individuals with Indian skin tones. It can be caused by various factors, including sun exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, and genetics. Here are some general recommendations for treating hyperpigmentation on Indian skin:

  1. Sun Protection:
    • Sun exposure can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF (at least 30) every day, even on cloudy days. Reapply sunscreen every two hours, especially if you are outdoors.
  2. Topical Skin Lightening Agents:
    • Ingredients such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, and licorice extract can help lighten hyperpigmented areas. These ingredients may be found in over-the-counter products or prescribed by a dermatologist.
  3. Retinoids:
    • Retinoids, such as retinol or prescription-strength tretinoin, can promote skin cell turnover and help fade hyperpigmentation. Start with a lower concentration to minimize irritation, and gradually increase if tolerated.
  4. Vitamin C:
    • Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help brighten the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation. Look for serums containing stabilized vitamin C (ascorbic acid) for maximum effectiveness.
  5. Chemical Peels:
    • Chemical peels, including glycolic acid or salicylic acid peels, can help exfoliate the skin and reduce hyperpigmentation. However, these should be done under the supervision of a dermatologist to avoid complications.
  6. Microneedling:
    • Microneedling involves the use of tiny needles to stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture. It can be effective in treating hyperpigmentation when performed by a trained professional.
  7. Prescription Medications:
    • Dermatologists may prescribe stronger medications, such as topical steroids or combination creams, depending on the severity of hyperpigmentation.
  8. Avoid Irritants:
    • Avoid harsh skincare products and treatments that can irritate the skin, as inflammation can worsen hyperpigmentation in individuals with Indian skin tones.
  9. Hydration:
    • Keep your skin well-hydrated. Moisturizing regularly helps maintain the skin barrier and can contribute to an overall healthier complexion.
  10. Consult a Dermatologist:
    • If hyperpigmentation is persistent or severe, it’s essential to consult a dermatologist. They can assess your skin, determine the underlying causes, and recommend a personalized treatment plan.

Remember that consistency is key when treating hyperpigmentation, and results may take time. Additionally, protecting your skin from further sun damage is crucial to preventing the recurrence of hyperpigmented areas. Always patch test new products and introduce them gradually to avoid potential irritation. Individual responses to treatments may vary, so consulting with a dermatologist for personalized advice is recommended.

Cosmelan Peel for Depigmentation: Benefits and Reviews

For people with darker skin, chemical peels are not always safe. One needs to be especially careful with deeper high TCA peels that go beyond the epidermis and penetrate the upper layer of the dermis. In this post, I will cover the Cosmelan peel, which is relatively safe and popular with people of color.

The company that makes Cosmelan® is mesoestetic. You can purchase the home use product from Amazon, where it currently has an average rating of 4.5 out of 5 stars based on 207 reviews.

Cosmelan Peel
Cosmelan 2 peel for melasma and dark spot treatment.

How does Cosmelan Peel work?

The Cosmelic peel treatment is used to treat melasma, brown spots and hyperpigmentation on the face. It can also be used in other body areas, although the face is the most common region. Note that one should try using skin lightening and bleaching creams first before proceeding to the more intensive peels.

There are two steps to the peel process.

  • Cosmelan Phase 1: An intense depigmentation process that should be undertaken at a clinic or salon under the supervision of a trained aesthetic professional. After application of the Cosmelan 1 mask, the customer goes home and allows it to act for between 8 and 12 hours. Usually, only one clinic visit is required as long as you adhere to the at-home aftercare regimen.
  • Cosmelan Phase 2: This is a home cream for use on the face to improve skin pigmentation imperfections. Cosmelan 2 is a maintenance product that needs to be used on a set schedule. A consistent treatment regimen will help regulate the overproduction of melanin for lasting results. One dermatologist (see video below) recommends using this product three times daily in the first month; twice daily in the 2nd and 3rd months; and once a day from the 4th month onwards.

Mesoestetic also sells a couple of other products to use afterwards. These include a soothing and melan recovery cream for sensitive skin, and a sun protection lotion. See more on their official Instagram account.

The Bombay Skin clinic has some great before and after photos of patients who got the Cosmelan Peel treatment. They classify this process as an:

Advanced medium depth peel treatment that is free from hydroquinone and steroids, thereby making it a safe peel.

Ingredients

Cosmelan contains multiple products that help with pigment removal. Cosmelan 1 contains azelaic acid, kojic acid, phytic acid, retinoic acid, ascorbic acid, arbutine, licorice extract, salicylic acid, retinol palmitate, tocopherol, bisabolol, allantoin, nicotinamide, aloe vera and titanium dioxide. Cosmelan 2 contains titanium dioxide, kojic acid, phytic acid and ascorbic acid.

Side Effects

As with any chemical peels, there can be some side effects with Cosmelan. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), among the potential side effects of chemical peels include persistent redness that may last for months; temporary darkening of the skin; lighter skin color; and, very rarely, scarring. In the hands of experienced dermatologists, such side effects are rare and usually transient.

The below video shows a full demo of the Cosmelan peel process on two African American brothers:

What Types of Hyperpigmentation can Cosmelan Treat?

Among the hyperpigmentation problems that can be treated with Cosmelan include the following:

  • Melasma.
  • Sun spots.
  • Age spots.
  • Acne scarring.
  • Post-Inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
  • Uneven skin tone.
  • Dark patches on knees, elbows and other areas of the body.

One darker skinned person even used this product for her undereye discoloration and dark circles. Her unbiased review on YouTube is worth a watch.

Cosmelan in Dark Skin

Here are some considerations for Cosmelan peel in individuals with dark skin:

  1. Consultation with a Professional: Before undergoing any skin treatment, especially for individuals with dark skin, it’s essential to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional who has experience with darker skin tones. They can assess your skin type, address any concerns, and determine whether Cosmelan peel is a suitable option for you.
  2. Patch Test: Darker skin tones can be more sensitive, and there is a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. A patch test can help assess how your skin will react to the peel before applying it to a larger area.
  3. Customized Treatment Plan: The concentration of active ingredients in the Cosmelan peel can be adjusted to meet individual needs. A customized treatment plan based on the specific skin concerns and skin type is important to minimize the risk of side effects.
  4. Pre-Treatment Care: Proper pre-treatment care is crucial for individuals with dark skin undergoing a peel. This may include the use of specific skincare products to prepare the skin and reduce the risk of complications.
  5. Post-Treatment Care: After the peel, it’s important to follow a strict post-treatment care routine, including avoiding sun exposure, using sunscreen, and using gentle skincare products to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation.