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Nigerian Women and Skin Bleaching Creams

Skin bleaching via the use of skin lightening creams (and other such products) is increasingly popular throughout Africa. Doctors and beauty experts in some African countries are sounding the warning bell regarding the rampant abuse of these potentially harmful chemical products.

Skin Bleaching Nigeria
Skin bleaching in Nigeria and other African countries.

Skin Bleaching in Nigeria and Africa

According to a new article in Premium Times (Nigeria), a staggering 77 percent of Nigerian women use skin bleaching creams. This is based on data from Nigeria’s National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC). More details can be found here.

This is the highest rate in Africa, well ahead of second placed Togo at 55 percent, third placed South Africa at 35 percent, and fourth placed Senegal at 27 percent. All of these statistics are estimated from surveys and interviews, though many countries in Africa do not conduct any such surveys.

Make sure to check out NAFDAC’s “Prohibition of bleaching agents and unsafe cosmetic products document“.

Bleaching creams can cause many side effects, including: cancer, allergic reactions, damage to vital organs, skin irritation, skin burns, rashes, wrinkles, premature skin ageing, long-term hyperpigmentation and prolonged wound healing.

The Desire for Ligher Skin and European Beauty Standards

For many Nigerian women, having lighter skin is considered more desirable and attractive. The historical colonial influence and later embrace of European beauty ideals has made the attainment of fairer skin a much desired goal. This is made worse by constant TV and social media advertisements for skin whitening creams and bleaching agents. There are many ongoing efforts being made to promote local cultural and beauty preferences and standards.

Colorism

Even among African and other ethnic immigrant communities in the US, skin bleaching is rife. A recent article in the Independent found that in one survey of minority migrant communities (with the vast majority being of darker skin types), 21.3 percent of respondents admitted using skin-lightening products. It should be noted that some of them want are using these for skin conditions such as acne, melasma or hyperpigmentation.

However, for most, the issue pertains to colorism and the perception that lighter is better.

Colourism, the system of inequality that views fairer hues as more beautiful than darker skin complexions, can be the motivation behind skin lightening, the study found.

Some ingredients found in over-the-counter ligtening agents can be very harmful, especially with overuse. These include mercury, hydroquinone and various acids.

The Ordinary AHA and BHA Peel for Dark Skin

The Ordinary peeling solution with AHA and BHA.
The Ordinary Peeling Solution 30ml (1 Fl Oz). AHA 30% + BHA 2%.

In an article in Women’s Health, skin health expert Jane Scrivner said the following:

There is an inaccurate assumption that Alpha Hydroxy and Beta Hydroxy Acids shouldn’t be used on black and darker skin as they contribute to pigmentation issues. However, when used correctly, these acids work fabulously on black skin and Fitzpatrick 4-6 skin types.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

In my post on mandelic acid for darker skin tones, I mentioned that it is one of the three main types of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). The others being glycolic acid and lactic acid. AHAs are one of the most frequently recommended exfoliating ingredients in modern skin care.

Other lesser know AHAs that are frequently found in skin-care products include citric acid, malic acid and tartaric acid. All three of those are derived from fruits and sometimes referred to as fruit acids.

Glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane) is the most intense of these AHAs. It has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the skin easily. If you have darker skin, you must be careful in the strength of glycolic acid that you use. Some dermatologists might not even recommend using it in your peel. Lactic acid is derived from fermented milk or synthetically.

AHAs are great at treating mild hyperpigmentation, including age spots, melasma, scars and uneven skin tone. However, if you have sensitive skin, AHAs can cause irritation. Most dermatologists recommend not using formulas with concentrations higher than 15 percent. AHAs in most cosmetic products operate at around a pH level of between 3 and 5.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are a class of mild acids that are especially popular for skin exfoliation and in treating acne. There is only one beta hydroxy acid that is commonly used in skin care products, and that is called salicylic acid. It is derived from aspirin. BHA in cleansers, lotions and moisturizers works best at a concentration level of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4. Per wikipedia, salicylic acid is used to treat warts, psoriasis, acne vulgaris, ringworm, dandruff, and ichthyosis.

The Ordinary Peeling Solution AHA 30% + BHA 2%

Perhaps the most popular peeling product on Amazon that contains both AHA and BHA is “The Ordinary Peeling Solution AHA 30% + BHA 2%”. It currently has a massive 37,000 reviews averaging 4.5 out of 5 stars. Moreover, it only costs $9.50. You cannot beat that price for such a popular product.

Note that “The Ordinary” is a brand from DECIEM. On the company’s website, this combination AHA plus BHA product is advertised as suited for all skin types. The average rating there is an even higher 4.7 out of 5 stars.

The directions for use on the face contain some warnings in order to prevent side effects.

  • Use no frequently than twice per week in order to avoid skin irritation.
  • Do not use on wet skin.
  • Apply evenly across face and neck using your fingertips.
  • Leave on for no more than 10 minutes.
  • Avoid any contact with the eyes during both application and rinse off.
  • Do not leave on for longer than 10 minutes.
  • The AHA in this product may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and susceptibility to sunburn. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this product.

The Difference Between Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids

While both AHAs and BHAs work in a smilar manner, they differ in how they penetrate your skin. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble chemicals that aid in the removal of dead skin cells. However, they can not go into the deep pores of your skin.

In contrast, beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble, meaning that they will dissolve in oil. Consequently, BHAs are able to penetrate into the skin pores where you have oily sebum buildup. BHAs can therefore exfoliate the dead skin cells that build up inside these pores and around hair follicles. Beta hydroxy acid are more suitable for those with oily skin that contains blackheads and whiteheads.

Dark Skinned People Warned to take Precautions with Laser Hair Removal

Since I started this site, I have written several articles about the most suitable lasers for hair removal in people with dark skin. A new article from ABC warns about the dangers of laser hair removal in people with darker skin. One has to exercise the utmost caution before proceeding with such a treatment if you have highly pigmented skin.

Laser Hair Removal Dark Skin
Laser hair removal in darker skinned people can be dangerous if the incorrect laser is utilized.

Dark Skinned People Urged to Take Precautions with Laser Hair Removal

In the new ABC article, it is emphasized that not all hair removal lasers are suitable for use in people with darker skin. On Nightline, they interviewed Eshanka Jayasinghe, a darker skinned South Asian origin woman who got major scarring and sun sensitivity after her laser hair removal procedures.

With the laser hair removal industry booming, an ever increasing number of clinics are treating people of color without suitable equipment or relevant experience.

It’s estimated about a million people get laser hair removal annually, and the industry rakes in around $300 million a year, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.

According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jeanine Downie, laser hair removal machines are strong and can cause permanent skin damage and scarring when in the wrong person’s hands. High demand for this procedure has resulted in clinicians who do not have proper training or medical knowledge about the risks to darker skin.

In general, Nd:Yag lasers are the most suitable in removing hair from people with skin types 4-6 on the Fitzpatrick scale. However, there are also other machines nowadays that combine several different wavelengths into one handpiece.

It should also be noted that not all dark skin is the same. People with African skin tones require a different treatment strategy in comparison to people with East Indian skin. See my post on laser hair removal in Indian skin.

If you do not take precautions, the use of an inappropriate laser for darker skin types can even cause potentially permanent burns on your skin. Make sure to go to a clinic that has significant experience in treating people of your skin type and ethnicity. And they need to show you a range of before and after photos of their past darker skinned patients.

Also of major importance, do not undergo any kind of laser procedure if you have had significant recent sun exposure. And if you have grey or white body hair, the laser will not succeed in eliminating the follicles.