The Epilaser 980: Safe IPL At-Home Hair Removal for Darker Skin

Epilaser 980 for Dark Skin Tones
Epilaser 980 for Dark Skin Tones.

Epilaser 980: Safe Laser Hair Removal for for Dark Skin Tones

When it comes to at-home laser hair removal devices, virtually all Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) devices on the market are meant for people with lighter skin tones. This has now changed with the release of Epilaser 980, the new kid on the block. It is effective on darker complexioned people with skin type five or six on the Fitzpatrick scale,

The Epilaser’s patented Smart Precise Optical Targeting (SPOT) technology is designed to treat melanin-rich skin and hair colors with precision and safety foremost in mind. It will not discolor your skin since it only targets the hair follicles. The FDA-cleared Epilaser 980 device operates at a 980-nanometer wavelength.

Epilaser only targets the follicle, leaving the skin untouched. The device is cordless and rechargeable, and doesn’t require the user to wear any safety glasses or goggles during treatment. Unlike traditional IPL laser hair devices that run out of flashes, Epilaser 980 works for life.

The retail price of Epilaser 980 is currently $995. Online customer reviews seem to be favorable, although the device is not yet available for sale on Amazon.

How Does the Epilaser 980 work?

The Epilaser 980 IPL device comes with four smart camera-guided 24j/cm2 diode lasers. They help distinguish hair from skin, freckles and moles. Once the hair follicles are identified, all four of the diode lasers are activated. These lasers dynamically adjust wavelength, pulse duration, intensity, direction and focus based on the density and coarseness of the hair detected.

The patented SPOT™ technology makes use of an advanced deterministic algorithm to differentiate hair follicles from melanin and pigment. When you place the device across your skin, it immediately generates a high-contrast optical map of the treatment area in real time.

The Epilaser 980 is safe for use in all body areas, including on the face. However, avoid using it on or around your eyes or nose. Each treatment burst takes just a few seconds and is entirely pain-free. Epilaser’s manual states that:

  • After a month of regular use (two to three times per week), you will see a significant reduction in hair regrowth. Moreover, as your hair follicle density lessens over time, Εpilaser treatment sessions will also become quicker.
  • After three months (12 weeks), most users report a permanent decrease in hair regrowth. The treated body area will feel smoother and looking clearer.
  • Beyond three months, you will just need rare touch-up sessions to keep things clear.

You can expect to see a minimum of 70% permanent hair reduction within 90 days of beginning treatment. Note that this same manufacturer also makes Epilaser 808 for at-home laser hair removal in people with light to medium skin tones.

Dark Circles in People of Color

Undereye dark circles (periorbital hyperpigmentation) are a common cosmetic concern in both men and women. Moreover, they are especially prevalent in people of color such as Indians and Africans.

Dark Circles in People of Color
Dark circles around the eye are a common cosmetic concern in people of color. Indians and Africans are especially prone to periorbital hyperpigmentation (undereye circles).

While anyone can develop dark circles, individuals with darker skin tones are more prone to this problem, largely due to genetic factors. The problem can be further exacerbated by lack of quality sleep, a bad diet, dehydration, too much screen time and more.

Types of Dark Circles in People of Color

There are two main types of dark circles in people with brown or black skin tones:

  • Pigmentary Dark Circles: These appear as brown or black discolorations and are primarily caused by hyperpigmentation. Meaning the overproduction of melanin in the skin around the eyes.
  • Structural (Hollow) Dark Circles: These are caused by the loss of fatty tissue under the eyes, creating a shadow or groove that can accentuate darkness.

Why are People of Color more Susceptible to Periorbital Hyperpigmentation?

Darker skin contains more active melanocyte cells, which are responsible for melanin production. This makes people of color more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, including around the eyes. Additionally, the contrast between the under-eye area and the rest of the face can make dark circles more noticeable in individuals with deeper skin tones.

Key Causes of Dark Circles

While genetics are the primary cause of dark circles in people of color, other factors can also lead to more prominent undereye skin darkening. Among the main reasons include:

  • Genetic: Many people of color inherit a predisposition to increased melanin production around the eyes. In addition, inherited anatomical features that promote shadowing under the eyes can also lead to prominent dark circles.
  • Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: The thin, sensitive skin around the eyes can easily react to inflammation from conditions such as eczema, allergies, or even frequent rubbing. Such irritation or injury can leave lingering dark marks around the eyes.
  • Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations can stimulate melanin production, worsening dark circles.
  • Sun Exposure: Despite the natural photoprotection offered by darker skin, excessive sun exposure can still trigger hyperpigmentation. This is especially true in the delicate thin under-eye area.
  • Aging: As people age, the skin loses collagen and becomes thinner, making underlying blood vessels and pigmentation more visible. Fat loss under the eyes can also create hollows that accentuate darkness. This is true for people of all ethnicities and races.
  • Lifestyle Factors: Fatigue, dehydration, a poor diet, stress and smoking can all contribute to the more prominent appearance of dark circles. However, these causes are almost always temporary in nature.
  • Medical issues such as thyroid disorders and anemia, plus nutritional problems such as iron or vitamin K deficiency can also contribute.

Treatment Options

Topical agents such as vitamin C, retinoids, hydroquinone and niacinamide may help lighten hyperpigmentation around the eyes and brighten the surrounding area. But these ingredients must be used cautiously to avoid irritation, which can worsen pigmentation. Check out some of the non-prescription lightening creams that contain these ingredients. Chemical peels or laser therapies can help but require expertise to prevent burns or scarring in darker skin.

For structural causes, dermal fillers or fat grafting may help restore lost volume. It is also imperative to take care of your diet, drink plenty of water, get sufficient amounts of quality sleep every night, and manage overall stress. Also avoid excessive exposure to direct UV sunlight. The use of sunscreen is critical. Consulting a dermatologist experienced in treating skin of color can help identify the most appropriate strategies for reducing the appearance of dark circles.

For allergies or eczema, the use of antihistamines and gentle moisturizers can minimize inflammation. The use of makeup and color-correcting concealers in peach or orange tones can also neutralize darkness in people of color.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Dark Skin

Tyrosinase Inhibitors Skin Lightening
Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Skin Lightening. Chemical Structures.

Tyrosinase inhibitors have become a cornerstone in managing hyperpigmentation and achieving even-toned skin. These compounds target the enzyme tyrosinase, which catalyzes melanin production (the pigment responsible for skin color). Overactivity of tyrosinase leads to conditions like melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and age spots. By inhibiting this enzyme, these agents help restore a balanced complexion while addressing both existing discoloration and future pigment formation. Also check out my post on the best dark spot correctors.

How Tyrosinase Inhibitors Work

Tyrosinase is essential for converting tyrosine into melanin precursors like L-DOPA. Inhibitors disrupt this process through mechanisms such as:

  • Competitive inhibition: Binding directly to the enzyme’s active site (e.g., kojic acid).
  • Non-competitive inhibition: Altering the enzyme’s structure (e.g., hydroquinone).
  • Chelating copper ions: Tyrosinase requires copper for activity, and agents like azelaic acid neutralize these ions.

This multi-pronged approach reduces melanin synthesis, making these inhibitors effective for diverse skin tones and pigmentation types.

Common Tyrosinase Inhibitors and Their Efficacy

1. Hydroquinone
A gold-standard inhibitor, hydroquinone suppresses melanocyte activity and is highly effective for melasma and PIH. However, prolonged use can cause irritation, ochronosis (bluish-black discoloration), and rebound pigmentation. It’s typically prescribed for short-term use (3–6 months).

2. Kojic Acid
Derived from fungi, kojic acid competitively inhibits tyrosinase and chelates copper. While effective, it degrades quickly in formulations and may irritate sensitive skin.

3. Arbutin
A gentler derivative of hydroquinone, arbutin (especially α-arbutin) offers comparable brightening with minimal side effects, making it suitable for long-term use.

4. Thiamidol
A synthetic resorcinol derivative, thiamidol is clinically proven to reduce PIH by 35–50% within 12 weeks. Unlike older agents, it specifically targets human tyrosinase and shows no significant irritation.

5. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Though a weak direct inhibitor, vitamin C blocks melanogenesis via antioxidant activity and stabilizing tyrosinase’s structure. It’s often paired with stronger inhibitors for synergistic effects.

6. Niacinamide
This indirect inhibitor reduces melanosome transfer to skin cells and combats inflammation-driven pigmentation, enhancing overall efficacy when combined with direct tyrosinase blockers.

Benefits Beyond Pigmentation

  • Preventive care: Regular use minimizes UV-induced melanin surges.
  • Anti-aging: Many inhibitors (e.g., vitamin C, resveratrol) also combat oxidative stress and collagen degradation.
  • Versatility: Suitable for acne-prone skin (azelaic acid) and sensitive types (arbutin).

Considerations for Optimal Use

  1. Combination Therapy. Pair inhibitors with exfoliants (e.g., glycolic acid) to accelerate cell turnover and sunscreen (SPF 30+) to prevent UV-triggered rebound.
  2. Tyrosinase Inhibitor Holidays. Cycling use (e.g., 3 months on, 1 month off) prevents enzyme adaptation and maintains efficacy.
  3. Formulation Stability. Ingredients like kojic acid and vitamin C degrade easily. Look for stabilized variants (e.g., tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) in airtight packaging.
  4. Safety and Tolerance. Patch-test new products, especially with hydroquinone or high-strength acids. Opt for nano-encapsulated formulations to reduce irritation while enhancing delivery.

Emerging Alternatives and Innovations

  • Cysteamine: A potent inhibitor with UV-protective properties, ideal for resistant pigmentation.
  • Nano-Theranostics: Nanoparticle-based delivery systems improve penetration and reduce side effects, as seen in experimental models.
  • Natural Extracts: Licorice (glabridin) and mulberry extract offer plant-derived inhibition with antioxidant benefits.

Conclusion

Tyrosinase inhibitors are indispensable for managing hyperpigmentation, but success hinges on selecting the right agent for your skin type and concerns. While hydroquinone remains potent, alternatives like thiamidol and arbutin provide safer long-term options. Integrate these inhibitors into a holistic regimen featuring sun protection, anti-inflammatory agents, and exfoliation for sustained results. Always consult a dermatologist to tailor treatments, particularly for persistent or severe pigmentation issues.